Excerpt from Mikulas Mlynarcik's diary: 82nd hike - Aug 14 1921 - Sunday
Due to bad weather, our departure from Tery Hut, with Karol Piovarcsy and Juraj Koromzay jr., was at 8:00 am. Because of fog we did not see almost anything. With my friends, we decided not to climb the ridge between Tery Col and Lomnicky Peak but to go for a first ascent in SW face of Lomnicky Peak instead.
It is 8:30 am. In the face we spot 2 long almost parallel ledges. We start to climb the face and get onto the lower one and move about 2 rope lengths (60 m), to the point where the ledge disappears. From there I try to climb onto the second ledge with the help of my climbing partners (Steigbaum) but with no success because the face is almost vertical and the ledge is too high. I fix the rope with a sling in order to abseil. I abseil 8m, reach the beginning of the bottom ledge and move up to the point where we started climbing. There we had some arguments with Piovarscy because he with young Koromzay tried to climb in a new direction without waiting me and moved with a big loose boulder, which fell and they could fell with it. I said them with austerity that it was a bad thing to do and we get somehow upset. From the starting point at the foot of the face (where a couloir with a small waterfall is) Piovarcsy climbed about 40m to reach the upper ledge. So we decided that using the rope he and Koromzay will help me with our 3 backpacks. When I had climbed about 10 meters, suddenly, I (with the rope and 3 backpacks) started to fall down.
Luckily, in a moment Koromczay was able to hold me again. It turned out that Piovarcsy left Koromczay alone to lift me. This is not nice that young 16 years old hiker is not yet so strong to belay me with 3 backpacks in such exposed terrain. I am getting angry that I have to deal with such behavior even here. What's more, Piovarcsy asked me for patience. I almost turned back but then the reason that we should stay together persuaded me on certain conditions to continue in the hike. After we reached the upper ledge we turned right, traversed over some small ridges and rock blocks and got under a small tower tilted towards Lomnicky Peak. Here we made one bigger "duckstone" (pyramid made of stones) as a marker. From there, in northeast azimuth from the small tower, to the right we walk over other ledges and reached a 6-8m high chimney. We climb it up and reach the ridge to which the mentioned small tower connects.
We proceed and get at the point where the southeast and south ridges of Lomnicky Peak meet. It's 11:30 am. Descending a little and traversing south wall of the peak we reach the normal route on Lomnicky Peak in 30 minutes.
It's noon, we are having a quick lunch and then abseil to the Skalnate Tarn (Kopatakitó) and hurry to ascend on Velka Svistovka Peak (Nagy Morgás), from where we descend in direction of Salviovy Spring (Zsázsa forrás). In continuous rain and very wet, we arrive at Frigyes Hut at the tarn Green Lake. We meet there some people from the town of Kosice. It's a lovely mood in the hut at the tarn.
Kecrely and Tay, tourists from Kosice, have led those nice people here. In the rooms of the hut we hear many singers and wine drinkers. With Kecrely, they sang the song "Horvath Andras was put on the court". Everybody liked it. After we finished a great cumin soup some meat meals followed and finally a peach jam (james). This jam is favourite one in these mountains and we use it at serious occasions.
We used to say: come on mate, let's have james. Our young tourist, for our taste, immediately composed some music similar to Horvath Andras, but instead of "Horvath Andras" we sang names such as Mischkeh's James, Karol's James or Duro's James. We agreed unanimously, in order to remember our long mountaineering hike, where also we from the town of Spisska Nova Ves made a first ascent, that: we, the mountaineers from Spisska Nova Ves, will call ourselves Jamesaci, and in a case of emergency or other occasion on calling "James" we will gather to help each other. Then, as a contribution to the tourist guide, we wrote down our today's climbing route and sent it to Andor Hefty from the town of Kezmarok, our main secretary.
The founders of JAMES association: Mikuláš Mlynárčik, Gusto Nedobrý a Fero Lipták. Photo: Jožo Šimko, 1958.
translation Ľubor Fraštia